Powerline Model 23-11
120 Amps
Date Code: MAY-22-03
Serial No.: A11040
Purchased: 7/2003
Serviced: 2025

Spare alternator

Powerline Model 23-11
120 Amps
Date Code: 60297
Serial No.: A06856

14 pole alternator puts out a 50% duty cycle on the R terminal (white wire) — 7 pulses per revolution (tach takeoff not used on Willow)

The bolt on the back of the alternator is an M6x1mm thread, 20mm long. The alternator has both SAE and metric connections!

The alternator ratings are based on SAE standards — 6,000 RPM alternator speed and 78°F temperature. The maximum temperature is 300°F. The efficiency of a high-output alternator is around 49%. An automotive alternator is only around 30% efficient (Rodney Knelly at Hehr)

Pulley is a Powerline Model No. 8-603, 2.2" diameter. Crank shaft pulley is 4.75" diameter. (2.16 ratio)

The original pulley (8-609) measured at 2.7" x 7/16". The new pulley measures 2.2" x 1/2".

To remove the pulley nut, an impact wrench (rented) is magic. The nut is 15/16". Without an impact wrench, use a 5/16" hex key inserted into the center of the shaft to lock it and then use a wrench on the nut. The nut should be tightened to around 50 ft-lbs.

Defender carries parts for Powerline

Recommended alternator filters from Powerline: Electrocube (800-516-1112) G2438 fluorescent light filter on the field, G2418-150 on the power output.

Repair kit 13-113 (list $110). Rebuild the alternator every 3,000 hours. If the boat is left standing in a salty environment, the alternator may not output a voltage. If so, sand the slip rings to get rid of corrosion, sand the brushes, and reassemble. The alternator does not have any type of over-temperature current fold-back internal to it.

Rebuilt old unit that failed after about 2,000 hours (2003). The repair place said that the bearings overheated due to too tight of a belt. They suggested tightening the belt just enough to stop the pulley from being able to turn when gripped with my hand. Then, run the engine until hot and adjust the belt again. The old unit is now a spare onboard.

Installed a low-pass LC filter from Newmar. Part number 150-A This filter is supposed to remove alternator noise from the radios.

Battery cable between house batteries is 2/0 AWG Ancor.

* See BCI for the standard battery dimensions. Information may be approximate, depending on battery technology, manufacturer, etc.

Reserve Capacity = minutes to drain 25 amps @ 80ºF to 1.75V/cell (10.5V)

Amp-Hours = number of amps discharged for 20 hours @ 80ºF to 1.75V/cell (10.5V). To calculate Amp-Hours capacity at a different discharge rate, use

        C_R = R * H * (C_H / (R * H))^P

where

CR	Amp-Hour capacity at the new discharge rate
H	Hours that the capacity was specified at
CH	Amp-Hour capacity at the specified discharge rate
R	Discharge rate
P	Peukert's exponent (about 1.24 for flooded lead-acid, 1.12 for AGM)

Amp-Hours = (Reserve Minutes * 0.4237) + 14.5 (calculated from an Excel spreadsheet)

from Trojan Battery User's Guide

                                                                * Rechargeable available

Rechargeable batteries onboard: Eneloop 28 AA, 20 AAA (new 2021)

Hellroaring Technologies, Inc. Model BIC-75150A S/N A01C3337 (5/01). This is wired to isolate the starting battery and the boat runs everything on the house battery. The starting battery is only used for starting the engine. Replaced the first unit that failed in 2013 (internal MOSFET blown).

Blue Sea Systems 5511e e-Series battery switch dual circuit plus combiner. The switch is located in the battery compartment. To get to it, lift the starboard settee cushion and the switch is near the starter battery.

I designed and built my own electrical panel (2023) to replace the original Bass Products, Inc. (out of business). The panel has a piano hinge at the bottom, which allows me to quickly open the panel to get to all the wiring. The new panel also has an ELCI breaker to protect swimmers and others from leakage currents.

Circuit Breakers: Carlingswitch AC/DC, Black Handle, #10 screw terminals

The following is the circuit breaker layout on the electrical panel:

The Lectra/San circuit breaker CB1 (75 amps) is located in the engine compartment on the port side.

FB1 - Fuse Block 1 (Port Top) (Blue Sea 5025)

FB2 - Fuse Block 2 (Port Bottom) (Blue Sea 5028)

FB3 - Fuse Block 3 (Starboard) (Blue Sea 5035)

Other Fuses

Installed behind electrical panel. From Yacht Corrosion Consultants (Professional Mariner) Zinc Saver: Installed 1999.

Lamp Base Information

T-3¼ Incandescent mini bayonet-base lamps for engine instrument gauges:

I had a problem with the 1893 lamps turning black (silver?) just running the instruments overnight. I installed a diode in-line with the positive feed, which dropped the voltage 0.7V and stopped the lamp problem.

To convert from candela to lumens:

Lumens = Candela * 2 * π * (1 - cos(θ/2))
    θ in radians

To get an approximation of watts to lumens (incandescent lamp, not halogen):

Lumens = (0.0573 * Watts²) + (13.034 * Watts) - 120.6

The following is the section from the COLREGs regarding lamp brightness:

8. Intensity of lights

(a) The minimum luminous intensity of lights shall be calculated by using the formula:

I = 3.43 x 10⁶ x T x D² x K^-D

where:

I is luminous intensity in candelas under service conditions.

T is threshold factor 2 x 10^-7 lux.

D is range of visibility (luminous range) of the light in nautical miles,

K is atmospheric transmissivity. For prescribed lights the value of K

shall be 0.8, corresponding to a meteorological visibility of

approximately 13 nautical miles.

• The tip of the lightning rod should be at least 10" above what it is designed to protect. In addition, all other objects should fall under a protective 90° cone from the tip.
• Use a rounded tip rod with a radius of curvature between 3/16" and 1/2".
• Aluminum or stainless steel are fine.
• A 3/8" rod with a flattened attachment point to the mast will suffice.
• The bottle brush devices aren't any more effective than a plain, rounded rod.

From Dr. Charles Moore, New Mexico Tech

The rig is bonded to underwater through the engine (at least for now). Green 6 AWG wire used throughout (2002).

To reduce refrigeration hum in SSB:

Grounded unused conductors in thermistor lead to the metal chassis ground of the refrigeration unit.

Under the nav station lid is a patch board for connecting together the wiring for the AIS, GPS, VHF, and nav station chart light. Here are the front side and the back sides, and the schematic (click the thumbnail images to expand):

TB1

#8 screws. Bilge Pumps (LBP-Lower Bilge Pump, UBP-Upper Bilge Pump). Located under floorboard near engine inlet strainer. The following is from the top to the bottom:

Hamilton Ferris

Prop - plastic 8¼" x 5" three-bladed prop (OMC 386587, $50).

Diodes - 1N1200A 12A, V_f 0.95V @ 5A 25°C. Can be replaced with IR 63CPQ100, 100A, V_f 0.6V @ 5A 25°C

Orca Green Marine, model LXTA-P. This is an LED-based combo light at the top of the mast. Measured current @12V of 0.4A for either one being on. The anchor light turns off at sunrise with a built-in photocell in the green sector.

The light has a waterproof connector on the bottom. The mating cable is a Conxall Nano-Mizer 603ST2. The included cable has 24 AWG wires. The contacts are gold-plated.

My original unit failed with water intrusion. OGM replaced it under warranty 12/2008.

There are three USB-A outlets around Willow's cabin. These are part number #PA#/HRNA from 12vtechnology.com. These are duplex outlets, with each USB port rated at 2.4A. They are in the saloon:

• On the port side by the forward bulkhead
• On the starboard side above the stereo cabinet
• On the electrical panel

There is also a USB outlet on the AC inverter at the nav station.

Green wires are for bonding. The 6 AWG wire is for lightning bonding and 8 AWG wire is for cathodic bonding.