Wilcox Crittenden — stamped with 1¼ on inside of cap. The O-ring is 1½" ID x 3⁄32" thick (Dash number 128). Talking with them, they know nothing about these older deck fills, i.e., why do my o-rings get chewed up in six months, why the o-ring thickness changed to a thicker o-ring (wider groove in cap), etc.

Replacement caps for these deck fills don't exist (2021). However, the Attwood 66074-3 does fit, but it's stainless steel and the W/C are "marinium", an aluminum alloy. I don't know if the dissimilar metals will cause the cap to get stuck in the fitting!

Original Phoenix faucet P5432A-I, uses washerless cartridge P82 (still installed in Willow). The replacement faucet is now Phoenix PF211304, which uses washerless cartridge PF287025.

Under each cartridge is a strainer screen. I had a problem with "scum" growing on the screen fouling the water taste (2025). I cleaned off the scum and soaked the screen in bleach before reinstalling.

O-ring for spout is a #11 (3⁄4" x 9⁄16" x 3⁄32").

I installed a low-flow aerator (0.5 GPM, 55⁄64"-27 thread size, female), McMaster-Carr 2675K68.

Faucet

Scandvik model 46004 (older model was 10443). Chrome flex hose (Scandvik 10286) is 6' long. I modified the sprayer holder by adding a small set screw threaded through the faucet body into a groove I cut on the sprayer. This setup eliminates the sprayer moving around from side to side while underway yet it's still easily removed for showering. Mounting hole is 1½".

Do not keep the sprayer under pressure. The flex chrome hose will explode.

The connection to the faucet is via rigid 8mm supply tubes (copper) using a compression fitting. I had the rubber compression fitting blow off (10/2010). Replaced them with 5⁄16" copper compression fittings.

Holding Tank (2021)

I built a custom holding tank using fiberglass over a foam plug. The tank resides inside the sink cabinet in the head. The tank holds ~25 gallons. Embedded in the fiberglass are four LED strips to allow a visual check of tank levels. The light's controlled with a momentary switch located near the toilet paper holder. I removed the four drawers and replaced them with false fronts. Sewage plumbing flow diagram. Holding tank design drawing. Y-valve settings. Photo essay.

Holding Tank (Original)

Holding tank — triangular height (22" high, 21" base, 25" hypotenuse, 15" long). Volume is about 2 cubic ft. (~15.75 gallons). Vent hose is 5⁄8" x 8ft. (hose & through hull new, 8/1999). Removed 2020—it had pinholes that leaked crap! The locker is usable for storage in the V-berth (port side).

Sink

Polar model 268 12.75" round sink, self-rimming, stainless steel, depth: 4.5", drain: 2", cut-out size: 11 1⁄8", inside diameter: 11 3⁄4", outside diameter: 12.75". The company no longer makes sinks.

The sink strainer is from C.S.B. International Products. It is a model 727SS Junior Duo Strainer, all stainless steel (sort of) with a die-cast tailpiece nut. Replaced 07/2020.

Toilet (Head)

Raritan PH head (old design with multi-turn inlet valve). I removed the LWS spring on the input (9/98), which allowed more water into the head. I replaced the pump unit with the PHII pump assembly (3/1999). Rebuild kit: PHRKIIC. The head water inlet is above the waterline with the boat at rest.

Inlet pipe: ¾" ID barb
Outlet pipe: 1½" ID barb
Handle: ⅞" diameter aluminum (0.745" ID), 11" long. Uses a GripWorks (was originally Hunt Wilde, but out of business) NRG vinyl handle. Black is available off the shelf. For white, you need to purchase a new handle from Raritan.

According to Raritan, each pump stroke (i.e., up and down) of the PHII moves approximately 1 pint (approximately 1 gallon in 10 seconds). With 1½" ID hose, 1 pint is 16" length of hose.

For PVC adapters to hose, see Sealand Technology. A 90° bend kit  for 1½" hose is part number 307-230311.

Raritan Lectra/San MC (installed 5/2001), serial number MC 004281 0900. Rebuilt 6/2009 — electrode pack, motor seals.

The Lectra/San uses a 75A circuit breaker (Blue Sea 7101 75A), which is located on the port bulkhead in the engine compartment.

Seawater — 4.3 oz. salt per gallon of water (~4% salinity). Solar salt dissolves more readily than table salt and is cheaper! Add ½ cup salt per flush in brackish water.

10-12 pump strokes delivers about 1 to 1 1/4 gallons.

According to Raritan, use the Raritan Concentrate to deodorize and lube the system. Either use the metered system (TWK Kit) or add the concentrate to the salt tank.

Every six months, use muriatic acid (31% HCl) to clean the system per the instruction sheet.

The salt tank should be above the water line with a valve on the output to regulate the salt flow into the toilet. Too much salt will burn out the electrode pack!

To test the electrode pack, measure the voltage drop across the shunt on the control module (1" x 3" metal on forward side of tank). During the treatment cycle, the voltage should be between 16 and 26 millivolts. If the reading is noticeably less than 16 millivolts, the electrode pack is probably bad. You can buy Raritan Lectra/San parts from www.holtmarinesystems.com in Chester, MD.

I replaced the electrode pack on 8/8/02. The voltage reading was 11 mV. I replaced it again in 6/2009. The reading was 9.8 mV. I replaced it again in 2020.

I added a 40-millivolt meter (YT Meter 69C9, 2024) to the removable panel so that I can keep an eye on the salt we add to each flush.

Replaced the macerator motor in 9/2012. The motor failed by effluent leaking into the shaft seal. The replacement part is 32-101AW ($240), which includes the motor, shaft seals, and shaft bushings. Raritan said that there's no reason to replace the cover gasket. I also replaced all the cover screws with Phillips screws to make assembly/disassembly easier.

Fuses: MDL 6.25, MDL 30, MDL 35 (only available at Fawcett's and Raritan). I replaced the MDL 35 fuse with an ATC 35 amp fuse for ease of buying replacements.

Using Dometic OdorSafe hose: 2' each leg to/from LectraSan (1½" NPT to 1½" barb straight)

Maintenance

1. Flush out system with three complete cycles and flushes of plain seawater.
2. Flush toilet dry.
3. Add one pint of Muriatic acid to two gallons of fresh water.
4. Pour solution in head and flush dry without using Lectra/San
5. Pour one gallon fresh water into bowl, but don't flush.
6. Let it all sit for 45 minutes.
7. Pump head 120 times with seawater (minimum of 10 gallons of water).
8. Run a Lectra/San cycle.

Treatment Control Panel — Raritan P/N 31-603 REV 0497
RJ-45 Pinout:

Replacement fuse block: Bussmann 4532 3-pole (~$25)

Willow's water plumbing schematic, for both pressure and non-pressure water, is here.

Galley sink drain strainer gasket — 3½"

Galley sink drain hose is 1½" ID. The seacock for it is 1½" (pipe size).

Pressurized water hose ID is ½".

Cockpit and side deck drains use 1½" ID hose to a 1¼" seacock.

Conbraco/Apollo handle (W565700): 4.8" long (from center of nut) x 0.88" wide (yellow vinyl) x 0.27" thick (yellow vinyl). The stainless steel part is ⅛" thick x ¾" wide. The nut is Apollo C153300.

Bilge

Galley

Fresh water pump: Shurflo Model 8050-204-033. 1.6 GPM @ 30 PSI (installed 2005). I replaced the check valve in 2024. There is an o-ring in the "valve assembly" that I replaced in 2024. The o-ring size is a dash 122 (the original o-ring was compressed out of roundness). I also replaced the entire pump head (8050-204-133) in 2024, but it still didn't fix the problem.

The reason for these replacements was to try to stop a pressure pulse when the pump switched off that fed back to the Whale flipper pump and splashed water with each pump stop. It helped, but didn't fix the problem.

A small air leak at the input to the pump will cause poor flow and pressure out of the pump. You can hear this leak when the pump turns off — it sounds like "fizzing" inside the pump.

Accumulator Tank: Shurflo Model 181-203 (24 oz.). Installed 4/01. Charge it to 20 PSI. Fittings 1/2"-14F-NPT.

Seawater pump — Shared with washdown pump to a Scandvik tap (103100-RC). Ports 1/2”-14 NPSM-Male

Foot pump : Whale Gusher MkIII Galley Foot Pump. Service kit AK0553. Piston & operating spring kit AS0556.

Whale Flipper Pump - Service kit AK0405. Rebuilt 1999.

Washdown

Johnson Aqua Jet WD5.2  12V. Located under the galley sink. Supplies seawater for both the washdown and the galley sink seawater tap.

Replaced a custom-built Plexiglas shower sump with the Attwood 4141 (2023). The shower drains into this with a ¾" ID hose. The icebox also drains into this sump with a ¾" ID hose. The outlet hose is a ¾" ID hose.

In the head on the port side is a bilge pump switch (Cole Hersee M-552—no longer available) that controls the pump.

I replaced the shower drain (2023) with one from Marine East (4006), which uses a ¾" ID hose. The old one stood too proud and water would pool around it.

Installed flush-mount deck fitting to port of the windlass (6/2010). I bought the fitting from New Found Metals (www.newfoundmetals.com).

Apparently, but not confirmed, this is the same unit as the Jabsco 31911-0000.

Spares

Drinking water filter is plumbed into the cold tap at the galley sink. The filter housing is a GE SmartWater GX1S01C. Housing O-ring WS03X10001 (3-5/16" ID X3-9/16" OD) or Culligan OR-38 or Pentair 151121.

Note; The GE filter (FXULC) has a restrictor that seriously slows down the water flow (0.6gpm). Don't use.

Heat Transfer Products SuperStor SS6M, 6 gallons (new 2005)

14" diameter x 16" high.

Pressure relief valve: Watts L100XL-3 (model: 0066133, UPC: 098268214673), Size 3/4", 150psi @ 210°F (replaced 6/2025).

I plumbed the water heater from the fitting near the thermostat housing on the engine top as the coolant source to the water heater. For the return, I put a T-fitting on the coolant return line from the heat exchanger to the block. See Water Heater Coolant Plumbing for more details.

The water heater thermostat is made by Therm-O-Disc. The model is 66T/59T combination with a manually resettable over-temperature limit. The temperature limit is 170°F. It's available from any hardware store. Replaced in 08/2024.

I added a water meter under the galley sink (2023). It measures how many gallons of water goes to the freshwater pump. The meter does not measure the water used by the foot pump. The meter is not resettable.

Forward Tank - 64 gallons (measured, standard, not imperial). Clorox 2 TBSP. Vinyl vent hose is ⅝" x 4' long (replaced 2022).

Aft Tank - 25 gallons (measured, standard, not imperial). Clorox 1 TBSP. There is a 6" Beckson Screw-Out Deck Plate (DP60-W) on the tank top. It uses a Beckson D6S-G gasket (replaced 2025). Vent hose is comprised of two parts: ⅝" x 8" vinyl hose to a ⅝" to ½" nylon barbed adapter to ½" x 7' vinyl hose. Replaced it all in 2025.

Recommended Clorox addition from Clorox web site — 1 teaspoon (1/6 oz or 5 ml) per five gallons (however, increase this to per 10 gallons of water for better taste). One cap full is one tablespoon (TBSP).

With the family on board and showers everyday, we average 2 gallons per person per day.

Directions from Shurflo (911-448) for sanitizing the tank(s):

Potable water systems require periodic maintenance to deliver a consistent flow of fresh water. Depending on use and the environment the system is subject to, sanitizing is recommended prior to storing and before using the water system after a period of storage. Systems with new components, or ones that have been subjected to contamination, should also be disinfected as follows:

1. Use one of the following methods to determine the amount of common household bleach needed to sanitize the tank.

A) Multiply "gallons of tank capacity" by 0.13; the result is the ounces (oz.) of bleach needed to sanitize the tank.
[Forward tank: 65 gallons → 8.5 oz., Aft tank: 25 gallons → 3.25 oz.]

B) Multiply "Liters of tank capacity" by 1.0; the result is the milliliters of bleach needed to sanitize the tank.

2. Mix into solution the proper amount of bleach within a container of water.
3. Pour the solution (water/bleach) into the tank and fill the tank with potable water.
4. Open all faucets (HOT&COLD) allowing the water to run until the distinct odor of chlorine is detected.
5. The standard solution must have four (4) hours of contact time to disinfect completely. Doubling the solution concentration allows for contact time of one (1) hour.
6. When the contact time is completed, drain the tank. Refill with potable water and purge the plumbing of all sanitizing solution.

NOTE: The sanitizing procedure outlined above is in conformance with the approved procedures U.S. Public Health Service.

In 2011, I switched all the water hoses for potable and pressure water over from vinyl to ½" PEX tubing. At that time, the fittings were made by SeaTech. Since then, Watts now makes them under the AquaLock brand.

For 10 years, the PEX tubing has worked well. In 2021, I had a problem with a pressurized tubing seriously leaking in the engine compartment. This has happened twice, both times with the engine running. My guess is that somehow the engine heat enabled the failure.

I color-coded the various water supply lines:

Diagram for Y valve settings

Logic table for Y valve positioning: